
CRANKY SMALLMOUTH
By Darl Black
“Smashed it!” “Delivered a crushing
blow.” “Almost ripped my arm from its socket!”
These comments
are not from participants in a professional wrestling match, but
from anglers reliving the experience of cranking up smallmouth.
Unlike the occasional lackadaisical hit from largemouth bass,
when smallmouth attack a crankbait it’s always a no holds barred
encounter. And if you are not careful, someone is going to get
hurt.
Best Bait
“Smallmouth are
outstanding fighters, but the intensity with which they strike a
crankbait displays a true killer instinct,” says smallmouth
guide Bill Albright, a former B.A.S.S. touring pro from eastern
Pennsylvania.
“Twenty years
ago, a crankbait would not have been my first choice for
smallmouth bass, but that has changed,” says Jeff Snyder, a
professional angler and smallmouth expert who frequents the
lakes and rivers of the Midwest. “Today, the crankbait is my
bread and butter lure for quickly locating aggressive
smallmouth. Nothing else triggers as hard a strike.”
In the
Northwest, Washington State tournament angler Bill Roberts
readily admits that smallmouth are his favorite fish and
crankbaits are his number one presentation. “Smallmouth have an
attitude towards crankbaits that largemouth sometimes lack,” he
acknowledges.
“Crankbaits are
versatile because they can represent both crayfish and
baitfish,” continues Roberts. “It depends on the time of year
and the particular water you are fishing as to whether smallies
are feeding on crayfish or some type of minnow. However I use
the same crankbaits to imitate both prey by selecting models
that have good action and different depth ranges. My
preferences in baits include Worden’s Timber Tiger series and
Poe’s Competition series.”
No argument
from Albright that crayfish are an integral part of a
smallmouth’s diet. “However, from my perspective, those
crayfish-look-alike baits with a diving lip are a gimmick,” adds
Albright. “Crankbaits are reaction baits; bass don’t analyze
profile details as it goes by. I want a crankbait that runs
true during all retrieve speeds and is of the approximate size
of the prey that smallmouth are targeting. In most instances, a
Bandit is my pick.”
Snyder also
believes that vibration is critically important in choosing a
crankbait. “For smallmouth, more so than largemouth, I want a
crankbait that has a tight wiggle rather than a loose wobble and
one that can be retrieved at high speeds. That’s not to say a
crankbait should always be fished by winding rapidly. A good
crankbait must be equally effective at all retrieve speeds. And
it should be available in several depth models to strain the
water. That’s why I like the Bandit series, ranging from the
super shallow Footloose to the #300.”
Seasonal
Outlook
Roberts loves
to crank the waters of the Northwest, including California’s
Lake Shasta, Washington’s Banks Lake and the Columbia River.
“There are some
anglers who try to tell me that smallmouth can’t be taken on
crankbaits in water temperatures less than 50 degrees or over 70
degrees. That just isn’t so,” states Roberts. “Heck, I’ve
caught smallies on crankbaits in 42 degree water, and those fish
wanted it bad, almost ripping the rod out of my hand. And I’ve
taken smallies on crankbaits during the hottest days of summer –
as long as I could reach them with the bait. One of the worst
things anglers can do is get stuck in a false belief about magic
temperatures.”
No one supports
Roberts more in dishing temperature guidelines than Snyder, who
cranks for smallmouth any time the surface isn’t covered with
ice. “Fish cannot escape their environment. Yes, you must be
aware that in cooler water, a bass’ metabolism will be slower.
But the metabolism affects how fish digest food and how often
they need to feed. That does not mean they are necessarily
slower in attacking a lure that is moving.
“I do not pay
that much attention to temperature anymore because I’ve become a
firm believer if prey and predator meet, the potential of a
strike is there – regardless of the temperature. Crankbaits can
draw strikes any time of the season – you just have to adjust
presentation to find the right retrieve.”
However, Snyder
is quick to point out that crankbaits are not necessarily the
best lure to use in all situations. Lure choice is dictated
largely by the mood of the bass and their location. According
to Snyder, actively hunting and feeding smallies are best
targeted with a crankbait, regardless of water temperature.
Also, Snyder prefers cranking when smallmouth are shallower than
8 feet, and never employs crankbaits if bass are deeper than 12
feet.
“But the single
most important factor for crankbait use is water movement,”
continues Snyder. “On a lake, a breeze or wind must be blowing,
or a reservoir must be pulling water. Of course in a river, the
steady current opens the possibility of cranking for smallmouth
every day.”
Bill Albright
offers a disappointing look when asked about cranking for
smallmouth through the seasons. These days, the crankbait bite
on his favorite lakes occurs only in fall.
According to
Albright, it wasn’t always that way. Less than a decade ago,
there was a traditional spring crankbait bite when the smallies
moved shallow to feed prior to pre-spawn activities. Back then
it was also possible to catch smallies during the summer in
moderate depths on rock piles, drop-offs and along the outside
edges of weedbeds. But all that has changed with ‘baitbucket
introduction’ of non-native alewife in many area lakes. With
high numbers of that prey now available, smallmouth chase
alewife most of the year.
The problem is
the location of alewife. In the coldwater period from late
fall to early spring, and in warmwater period of mid summer,
alewife hang out in the middle of the lake usually 30 to 50 feet
deep. The smallmouth hang with them, thereby making cranking
totally ineffective during those times.
Spring
Patterns: Roberts believes that cool water in lakes
during the early spring is the cranker’s best friend. His
reasoning is simple. Smallmouth are on the move from deeper
wintering areas to the shallower flats. This requires anglers
to search considerable stretches of water, making crankbait use
ideal for this situation. And since few anglers in his region
attempt cranking at this time, it remains an almost untapped
gold mine for those who do.
“Most of my
early spring and pre-spawn cranking is along those migration
routes, such as rocky points, creek channels leading into bays
or shallow flats. Transition areas where soft muck bottom
switches to rock rubble or a firmer bottom are also key sites.
Key fishing depths are 7 to 14 feet.”
But according
to Roberts, the real secret to coldwater cranking is ‘hanging’
the bait. Each time he bumps a bottom object, he pauses the
retrieve to allow the bait to hang in the water. Roberts
achieves neutral-buoyancy by using Storm’s SusPend Dots. For
his favorite Poe’s 300, he says six dots positioned directly on
top of one another immediately in front of the first treble
usually does the trick. However, because these wood baits are
not identical in weight, some adjustment in the number of
SusPend Dots may be needed.
How important
is a suspending crankbait in cold water? Roberts tells about a
Banks Lakes tournament one spring when he had a limit in eight
minutes with one of his doctored baits and stalling retrieve.
Meanwhile, his boat partner – using a non-weighted crankbait –
didn’t catch a single bass during the flurry.
Once smallmouth
arrive on the shallow flats, the Timber Tiger DC8 becomes
Roberts’ mainstay. With water temperature well into the 50s and
bass in water less than eight feet deep, he says there is no
need to use suspending baits. “Now I’m using a steady retrieve,
moving the bait a bit faster,” notes Roberts. “With its Timber
Roller Lip, the DC8 has very good deflecting capability for both
rock and wood, along with that perfect tight wiggling action.”
Summer
Patterns: With the spawn over and the shallows heating
up, smallmouth in lakes drop deeper. Roberts makes the
adjustment by going to a Poe’s 400 Competition to reach the
14-16 foot depths or Poe’s Long Reach to hit the 18-20 foot
range. He targets extended points, rock piles on deep flats,
midlake humps and ledges along river channels.
“I’ll start the
morning off by cranking fast in order to cover a lot of water
during low light period,” explains Roberts. “Then as the day
wears on, I slow down and work the crankbait more methodically.
By this I mean picking apart those larger structural elements
and isolating individual pieces of submerged cover, such as
stumps or large rocks. I want to hit something, then pause to
let the crankbait back off and begin floating upwards before
engaging it again.” This bump-and-backoff technique replaces
his bump-and-hover tactic of spring.
Fall
Patterns: When lake water begins to cool off in the fall
and smallmouth return to shallower water, these experts agree
nothing can put bass in the boat as quickly as a crankbait.
“With water
temperature between 50 and 60 degrees, there is no lure that
works as well as a crankbait when smallmouth move back onto the
shallow flats,” Albright says. “There is no need to bump cover
or touch bottom to trigger a strike in the fall. On my favorite
lakes, including Wallenpaupack in Pennsylvania and Cayuga in New
York, the bass are positioned on the deep edge of shallower
flats to ambush baitfish moving in and out. I keep the boat in
about 15 feet of water, throw a Bandit 200 into four or five
feet, and retrieve quickly with an occasional stop or
hesitation. Most of my strikes come when I hesitate the bait.”
Roberts says
his retrieves in the fall are markedly different than spring or
summer. “Using one of the Timber Tiger models, I simply wind
the reel handle as fast as I can – I literally burn the bait.
Timber Tigers, particularly the DC5, hold a straight line while
maintaining that crankbait action no matter how quickly they are
retrieved. That’s how I get my largest smallmouth of the
fall.”
River
Patterns: When it comes to jockeying for feeding
positions, smallmouth use current to their advantage. Because
smallmouth are creatures of current, Snyder seldom considers
using a crankbait in a lake situation unless the wind is
blowing. But in flowing water, it’s a different case.
“Crankbaits are
my primary lure tool for rivers or any waterway connections with
current,” states Snyder. “With a single bait, such as a Bandit
200, I can cover 80% of a typical river’s smallmouth habitat.
By holding the rod tip at various positions, I can strain the
depths to eight feet. And by reeling fast or slow, I can vary
the speed of retrieve until I figure out what the bass want on
that particular day.”
When fishing
for largemouth with a crankbait, Snyder wants to bump bottom
objects. But when cranking for smallmouth he says a
free-swimming retrieve is every bit as effective. This is
particularly important when fishing rocky bottom cover in a
strong current. There is no need to use deep-diving baits to
over-dive, thereby sacrificing lures to rocks. A crankbait that
dives close to the bottom – only brushing bottom occasionally –
is sufficient.
Snyder explains
that while smallmouth in impoundments move deeper in the summer,
river smallmouth actually move shallower – into faster moving
water.
On small to
moderate size rivers during the warmwater period, Snyder heads
first to the pushes or hardpan lift areas at the head of
a riffles. In the shallowest water, he goes to a Bandit
Foot-Loose which runs less than a foot under the surface. He
also favors current seams and reverse flow eddies along wing
dams, riprap, bridge piers and inflowing tributaries. Snyder
recommends fishing a crankbait pass any object that breaks the
current flow.
With the
arrival of cold water in the late fall, smallmouth move out of
the stronger current flow sites to slower eddies or holes.
While Snyder still relies on a crankbait as the initial search
lure, he slows the retrieve down considerably. He recalls
incidents where smallmouth have smashed crankbaits when the
water temperature was in the high 30s.
Auxiliary
Tools
These anglers
say the choice of a smallmouth crankbait rod is very important
to success. A moderately flexible blank is critical in keeping
hard-charging smallmouth from coming unbuttoned. However, for
increased sensitivity, each angler prefers a graphite model
rather than a fiberglass or composite rod.
Albright uses a
Shimano VCT-66M and a high-speed Curado reel spooled with 10
pound-test Stren. Snyder goes with a Lamiglas XDC703 rod and a
Lews BBING casting reel with 8 to 12-pound Berkley XT line,
depending on the cover.
Roberts opts
for a 6-1/2’ medium power Browning Vectra rod, and usually mates
it to a 6.2:1 high speed Quantum Accurist reel spooled
with10-pound green McCoy Line. “I normally use a
high-speed-retrieve reel because it pays to move crankbaits very
fast at times for smallmouth,” notes Roberts. “However, in the
early spring, I switch to an old Lews reel with a 4.3:1 gear
ratio to slow down the bait. You can try to crank slower, but
the human tendency is to wind too fast. I correct the human
problem by changing reels.”
Roberts also
removes any split rings from crankbaits, using a #2 DuoLock Snap
for the line-to-bait connection.
Snyder advises
great care if landing a crankbait-hooked smallmouth with a
finger/thumb lip grip. “The mouth is so small that the risk of
getting a treble embedded in your hand is high if the fish
surges, shakes or jumps at the last second. Generally, on
smaller bass I use a belly lift, which has a similar paralyzing
affect on the fish as the lip grip. A rubber net is good idea
for bigger smallmouth since trebles do not tangle in the mesh.
Long-nose pliers or a Baker Hookout tool can help prevent
personal injury, too. Smallmouth are fighters to the end, and
just when you think they are going down for the count, they’ll
surprise you with another move.”
Past
Articles
EAST MEETS
WEST ON LAKE ERIE
TACKLING
RIVER SMALLMOUTH IN THE FALL
INDIGENOUS
BAIT
SUPER SHALLOW
SUMMER
CREATURES OF THE NIGHT
CRANKY SMALLMOUTH
TINY TORPEDO
LAKE ERIE “BEST” FOR
SMALLMOUTH BASS
HOW TO CATCH THE BIGGEST SMALLMOUTH
OF YOUR LIFE
IN QUEST OF CENTER HILL SMALLMOUTH
LOVE
THOSE HELLGRAMMITES!
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